Very nice peak with long approach and easy climbing all the way to the very sharp top.

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3468 m |
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756 m |
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7,6 km |
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10 h |
Almost no photos were taken 🙂
Up to Midi on first lift and about one hour walk across the glacier to reach the start of the climb.
At the beginning go right. Easy ground on the left leads to the descent route. There are bolts or tats on every belay station, but mostly no gear in between. The peak is truly pyramid shaped and very pointy!
It’s recommended to be fast. Abseil stations get very crowded during the afternoon as groups start to bail mid route for starting too late. The climb itself took us about 4,5h, abseiling over 3h! The walk back took nearly 2h due to heat and uphill back to Midi. Almost missed the lift back down.
Essential gear we had
More information
Rockfax – Chamonix, 2022, page 310
