Breithorn (half) traverse

Route involves glacier travel with risk of crevasses: Glacier safety kit, crevasse rescue skills and roped travel required!

Route involves exposed scrambling with risk of falling: solid scrambling competence and route-finding skills required!

Route involves high altitude with risk of altitude sickness, extreme wind and cold: high-altitude experience and acclimatization required!

Route involves steep snow with risk of falling: crampon and self arrest skills required!

First half of the Breithorn traverse from the Klein Matterhorn lift. Great route with very little ascent required but really big mountain feeling.

Location	Switzerland, Vallorcine
Difficulty	Alpine: PD
Our rating	3
Elevation	4139 m
Ascent	550 m
Distance	9 km
Our time	6 h

After a lot of investigation, we found out that you can buy one day international ski ticket from Cervino to get to the Klein Matterhorn lift station for about the same as it would cost to get to Testa Grigia. Starting form the higher lift station gives you enough time for the traverse without using the huts (if you are fast).

From the Klein Matterehorn lift station there was clear path all the way to the base of the Roccia Nera. Weather had been unusually warm and many of the crevasses were already opening and the there was some ice and scrambling required going up the Roccia Nera.

From Roccia Nera the snow ridge leads easily to the Gendarme (Gemello del Breithorn). Scrambling up to Gendarme was harder than expected, probably due to lack of snow in many places. From there two abseils down. Tats were easy to find.

Again follow the snow ridge to the next scramble. Here it was steeper and more icy again. Easy scrambling to the top of the Eastern Breithorn. From the top, follow the path down and left to first abseil straight down. Second abseil goes right (looking at the rock) and third left. After reaching the snow go below the next rocks to reach the saddle before Central Breithorn.

Here you can climb the rocks (III) and finish the traverse with las two peaks. We decided to go down and get to the last lift in time 🙂